This would allow hairstylist Moe to place one of the wigs on James’s head half an inch back from her normal hairline. To solve this problem, Collins had his team sculpt a forehead appliance to match Anderson’s forehead. “Once we completed this research, we knew we were going to have to build a few specific prosthetics to help zero in on a more exact likeness.” From the start, the biggest difference to contend with was the spatial difference between their respective brows and hairlines, James’s being significantly smaller than that of Anderson’s. “We cross-compared and did some photoshop work to help lay the foundation,” explains Collins. They did the same for Lily James, using the latest technologies to map out a plan. The pair began by taking a forensic-like approach to getting to know Anderson’s features, collecting mid-’90s reference materials of the star from her early modeling career, films and television appearances, and candid paparazzi shots. “The challenge is always daunting when you’re tasked to turn an actor into an iconic persona,” explains Collins, who worked diligently alongside Williams.
Of course, to truly turn James into Anderson, custom face and body prosthetics were essential for the physical transformation. The last clinching detail? Anderson’s plush, oft-overlined pout, which was most often a “natural beige rose,” says Williams, whose go-to shades included Charlotte Tilbury’s Pillow Talk and Tom Ford’s Forbidden Pink as a base with mid-’90s-inspired lip liners, like MAC’s iconic Spice shade, “slightly overdrawn and visible to represent the lip style of the period.” For the frostier effect, Senna Lip Luster in raspberry pink Glint was topped off with a layer of creamy lipstick in iridescent shade Moonglow on top for shine. Of course, nailing Anderson’s arched, pencil-thin power brows was a top priority: Taking execution to the next level, Williams used the Anastasia Beverly Hills Perfect Brow pencil to lightly draw the brow for placement before gluing on a set of delicate, hand-sewn lace brow pieces designed by special-effects hair technician Sasha Camacho Van Dyke. Smoky eyes were often in the mix, with Tom Ford’s rich Cocoa Mirage browns and Make Up for Ever’s sooty black smudged into the lids and lashes enhanced with double stacks of Ardell strip lashes.
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